Mark Journee's Farmboy #995 (so far)

 Hello Allen 

First of all thank you very much for the plans!   I'm almost in love with making the parts.  I've made some progress since I have some free time at the moment. I make the farm boy a little bit different from the original but here are some pictures of the engine:

Kees Bijker's Flathead V8 vs Howell V4

 Hi Allen,

A "little" comparison with my previous Ford V8 flathead 1:3 model I made.

Your father's V4 is really tiny.

I am hoping that the Howell Vfour will end up looking just as nice. (Don't look at the engine stand yet, that was a fail to be rectified soon).

Take care.

Kees

Kees Bijker's 3D printed V4

 Kornelis Bijker from The Netherlands is building a 3D printed version of Dad's V4 engine.  Here's his latest update:

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"Hello Allen,

It is quite the trip I have to say. I think I have 95%+ of all the parts modeled by now, and started modifying the fits, fasteners and certain details for 3d printing.

Things like the con rods I cannot print in one piece, so I had to modify them to have a bearing cap, a very small bearing cap. The miniature bearings are 2.5 mm wide so the bolts holding them on will be just M1.4, the tiniest I have ever used.

Most of the original designs I try to keep, but some parts are simply to difficult to print like that.

The guts of the engine will have all working mechanics, like crank, pistons, cams and timing gears, lifters and moving pulleys.

But internals of pumps and ignition will not have moving mechanics. Simply too small and too detailed for FDM printing to work well. And in a plastic model without petrol combustion, I do not need cooling or oil anyway.

Still not sure where I will build in the electrical motor. If not inside the crank case I might have to "invent" some fictional starter motor. Maybe a bell-house with a large gear instead of the flywheel. Not decided yet.

But as of now the fasteners have been modified to metric, so have most of the bearings. They are easier to find here then the ANSI style and imperial bearings.

I also have started printing things, mostly as a test to help decide tolerances and such.

I was quite happy that the fan shroud printed as well as it did. Also happy how the radiator insert came out, you can actually see through it.

Some things still to do are the throttle linkages, and yes the distributor will advance as well. I also will attempt to connect the speed potentiometer with the throttle link so that the engine will respond to the throttle. The sound is another story."

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The first 4 images are the 3D software renditions of the V4, and the last three are actual 3D printed radiator parts.  Nice job Kees!  Looking forward to seeing this to completion!

March 21st Update:

Hi Allen,

Plodding on with modifications and printing and now also building.

The engine casing still needs cleaning up but I have started with the heads now. Some photos showing the tiny parts on a background of my notes for printing.

In view also the hand tools for this minuscule work. M2 hand-tap in a tap spinner and the M2 Allen key. Some photos show how the parts come off the printer. Looks a bit like an air-fix kit when they are all attached to each other. Right now printing the rocker arms and other small parts to complete the heads. I keep saying "other small parts", but to be honest all of it is small. Anyway next week I will be on holiday so no work on the engine for 2 weeks.

So far I have modified the valves to take a M3 bolt as a stem and the push rods with valve lifter to be made from a ground to shape M3 bolt as well. I am printing the clevis, as this is a really neat part that needs to look right.

Long way to go still.

Second email with more pictures and a section view of the engine to show the new valve and push-rod. setup. I have had to do away with the valve lifters and the ground down bolt head will take its place. The next email with the section view will show this

Glen Monk's Farmboy #899

Here's a nice letter w/photos I received from Glen Monk of Pensacola, FL  

Pat Janson's freelance Hit n Miss

Here are a few photos of a make & break engine that I’m building.

It’s freelance and completely done with bar stock except for the flywheels, crankshaft and connecting rod. The flywheels are cast iron caster wheels found on EBAY, machined down to be round and concentric. The crank and rod were salvaged from an old broken sewing machine. When I saw the parts in the sewing machine I immediately decided that they would make a great engine. That was 20 years ago.

I’m retired now and finally started building it. I’m so close to starting for the first time, but am having problems with the carburetor. I’ve made 3 so far and still cant make it work. I’ll get it sooner or later.

I got the TIM 6 ignition from you and assembled that without problems .. I seem to have good spark.
I thought you’d like to see my project.

Thanks,

Pat Janson
Old Orchard Beach, Maine

TIM6 Ignition Module / ATV Coil Bench Test Procedures

Before you install your new TIM6 ignition system on your engine, I highly recommend you do a simple bench test with it and all the components. This way you will be more familiar with it and see how it actually works. Otherwise, once installed on the engine, issues sometimes show up such as bad connections and open grounds - making it much more difficult to diagnose the system as a whole.

Once you get it working on the bench, proceed by installing just ONE component at a time on the engine, and re-test. If it still works, install the next component and re-test. Repeat until the entire system is installed. If it quits working after you installed a particular component, then you know you have a connection problem with that component.

See the photos below for how I bench test the TIM6 with the ATV coil.

1. The tab on the coil connects to "Coil +" and the coil frame is connected to "Coil -" on the TIM6 module.
2. Cut the end of the coil's spark plug cable so that about 1/8" of the copper wire is exposed.  Secure the spark plug wire to the coil frame so that the exposed wire is 1/16" to 1/8" from the coil frame.  No more, no less or you can damage the coil.  The spark will jump here.
3. Connect your 6v battery to "6 volt+" and "6 volt -" on the module.  
4. Using a bent paper clip, quickly touch and release the "points" terminals on the connection block several times.  This simulates a "points" system.  Each time you make a connection you should see the LED light up, and when you release a spark will jump across the gap of the spark plug wire and the coil frame.

(Click photo to enlarge)

If this is successful, and if your setup will be using the Hall/Magnet switch, then resume testing:

1. Switch off power, or disconnect  "6 volt +" on the module
2. Hook up the Hall sensor to the switch block following the TIM6 Instructions, or as shown in the photo below using our Hall wire.
3. Reconnect power.

Wave your magnet's south pole across the face of the Hall sensor.  At each pass, the LED should light and sparks should jump between the coil spark plug wire and frame.

(click photo to enlarge)

Final Test:

As a final test before you install anything on your engine, connect the spark plug to the coil.  In the case of the ATV coil, connect the spark plug wire to the top of the spark plug, and position the plug threads so they touch the coil frame.  A rubber band may be helpful to hold it in place.

When you test now, you should see the spark in the spark plug gap.  If not, check connections, or you may have a faulty spark plug.

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If these test pass, you are ready to install the system on your engine.  I would install the components in the following order, testing that everything still works IN BETWEEN each component install:

1. Spark Plug
2. Points or Hall/Magnet 
1. Make sure the Hall sensor install, and it's wires, are well insulated from the engine frame.  Some of our instructions recommend you also ground the module (from the "Gnd" on the board terminal block) to the engine frame.  This is to provide a path for the coil's high voltage to ground in case the Hall sensor or wiring is too close to the engine. If you're getting good spark after installing the spark plug, hold off on this step.  However, if your have a problem with Hall sensors blowing out, try this ground.
3. TIM6 module
4. Battery

If these steps are followed, you are much more likely to have a trouble-free install.  If you have any trouble along the way and just can't figure it out, feel free to e-mail allen@outpostenterprises.com with photos and a detailed description of the problem, and I will do my best to assist.

Good luck!

BuzzCoil Ignition Module and ATV Coil Bench Testing

Before you install your new BuzzCoil ignition system on your engine, I highly recommend you do a simple bench test with it and all the components. This way you will be more familiar with it and see how it actually works. Otherwise, once installed on the engine, issues sometimes show up such as bad connections and open grounds - making it much more difficult to diagnose the system as a whole.

Once you get it working on the bench, proceed by installing just ONE component at a time on the engine, and re-test. If it still works, install the next component and re-test. Repeat until the entire system is installed. If it quits working after you installed a particular component, then you know you have a connection problem with that component.

See the photos below for how I bench test the BuzzCoil with the ATV coil.

1. The tab on the coil connects to "Coil +" and the coil frame is connected to "Coil -" on the BuzzCoil module.
2. Cut the end of the coil's spark plug cable so that about 1/8" of the copper wire is exposed.  Secure the spark plug wire to the coil frame so that the exposed wire is 1/16" to 1/8" from the coil frame.  No more, no less or you can damage the coil.  The spark will jump here.
3. Connect your battery (I use a 9v smoke alarm battery) to "Batt +" and "Batt-" on the module.  
4. Using a bent paper clip, quickly touch and release positions 2 and 3 on the switch connection block.  This simulates a "points" system.  Each time you make a connection you should see the LED light up and a "shower of sparks" will jump across the gap of the spark plug wire and the coil frame.

(Click photo to enlarge)

If this is successful, and if your setup will be using the Hall/Magnet switch, then resume testing:

1. Disconnect Batt +.
2. Hook up the Hall sensor directly to the switch block following the BuzzCoil wiring diagram PDF, or alternatively use steps 3-4:
3. With the Hall's beveled edge facing down, insert the Hall Sensor into the switch terminal block positions 1,2 and 3.
4. With your needle nose pliers, grasp the Hall legs in the middle and bend the head up.
5. Reconnect Batt +.

Wave your magnet's south pole across the face of the Hall sensor.  At each pass, the LED should light and sparks should jump between the coil spark plug wire and frame.

(click photo to enlarge)

Final Test:

As a final test before you install anything on your engine, connect the spark plug to the coil.  In the case of the ATV coil, connect the spark plug wire to the top of the spark plug, and position the plug threads so they touch the coil frame.  A rubber band may be helpful to hold it in place.

When you test now, you should see the spark in the spark plug gap.  If not, check connections, or you may have a faulty spark plug.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If these test pass, you are ready to install the system on your engine.  I would install the components in the following order, testing that everything still works IN BETWEEN each component install:

1. Spark Plug
2. Points or Hall/Magnet 
1. Make sure the Hall sensor install, and it's wires, are well insulated from the engine frame.  Some of our instructions recommend you also ground the module (from the "Gnd" on the board terminal block) to the engine frame.  This is to provide a path for the coil's high voltage to ground in case the Hall sensor or wiring is too close to the engine. If you're getting good spark after installing the spark plug, hold off on this step.  However, if your have a problem with Hall sensors blowing out, try this ground.
3. BuzzCoil module
4. Battery

If these steps are followed, you are much more likely to have a trouble-free install.  If you have any trouble along the way and just can't figure it out, feel free to e-mail allen@outpostenterprises.com with photos and a detailed description of the problem, and I will do my best to assist.

Good luck!