Andrew Whale, from merry ol' England, has been producing some very good videos of his Farm Boy engine project. As of this writing he has three videos, each approx 20 minutes long, and he will have many more as his progress continues.
Here's his first video in the series:
Click the link below for his entire Farm Boy playlist on YouTube:
Before you install your new PICTIM ignition system on your engine, I highly recommend you do a simple bench test with it and all the components. This way you will be more familiar with it and see how it actually works. Otherwise, once installed on the engine, issues sometimes show up such as bad connections and open grounds - making it much more difficult to diagnose the system as a whole.
Once you get it working on the bench, proceed by installing just ONE component at a time on the engine, and re-test. If it still works, install the next component and re-test. Repeat until the entire system is installed. If it quits working after you installed a particular component, then you know you have a connection problem with that component.
See the photos below for how I bench test the PICTIM and the Power Keg coil.
The two black coil wires are connected to Coil + and Coil - on the PICTIM (the Power Keg coil is NOT polarized unlike the Universal ATV or other "3 wire" coils)
The white leads will simulate the spark plug, so position them so they are 1/16" to 1/8" apart. No more, no less or you can damage the coil. If you have the red universal ATV coil; simply position the end of the spark plug wire 1/16" to 1/8" from the coil frame and the spark will jump here.
I connect a 9v smoke alarm battery to Batt + and Batt- on the board.
Using a bent paper clip, quickly touch and release positions 1 and 3 on the switch connection block. This simulates a "points" system. Each time you make a connection you should see the LED light up and a spark jump across the white wires of the coil.
(click photos to enlarge)
If this is successful, and if your setup will be using the Hall/Magnet switch, then resume testing:
Disconnect Batt +.
Hook up the Hall sensor directly to the switch block following the PICTIM wiring diagram PDF, or alternatively use steps 3-7:
Gently bend the middle lead of the Hall sensor away from the other two.
Wrap a small strip of tape around the two outer leads as close to the head as possible, leaving half of the bottom of the leads exposed.
With the Hall bevel facing up and leads towards you, bend the middle lead 2 to the left so it is now "third" from the right. Lead 1 should still be straight and will now be "second". Lead 3 will also be straight and "first" from the right.
The tape serves as an insulator in case the leads touch. Verify that the bent middle lead is not touching and other leads.
Insert the Hall sensor into the terminal block, face up, into block positions 1,2,and 3 as shown in the photo below:
(click to enlarge)
8. Reconnect Batt +.
Wave your magnet's south pole across the face of the Hall sensor. At each pass, the LED should light and a spark should jump between the coil's white leads.
As a final test before you install anything on your engine, connect the spark plug to the coil. In the case of the Power Keg, simply connect one white wire to the top of the spark plug, and the other white to the bottom threads.
If you are using the red universal ATV coil, simply connect the coil spark plug wire to the top of the spark plug, and connect the frame of the coil to the spark plug threads.
When you test the PICTIM now, you should see the spark in the spark plug gap. If not, check connections, or you may have a faulty spark plug.
If these test pass, you are ready to install the system on your engine. I would install the components in the following order, testing that everything still works IN BETWEEN each component install:
Points or Hall/Magnet
IMPORTANT! At this point, also ground the PICTIM board from pos 4 of the Hall block to the engine frame before testing. This is to provide a path for the coil's high voltage to ground in case the Hall sensor or wiring is too close to the engine. Failure to do so may cause the spark to jump from the legs of the Hall sensor, or the Hall sensor itself to the engine frame and blow the Hall or a board transistor.
If these steps are followed, you are much more likely to have a trouble-free install. If you have any trouble along the way and just can't figure it out, feel free to e-mail firstname.lastname@example.org with photos and a detailed description of the problem, and I will do my best to assist.
Here is my recently completed version of Stirling “Beamer” Engine from your fathers plans. Of course I always change a few thing to make it me. This was a fun but challenging project. I really enjoyed the challenge of the taper columns keeping the flutes the same depth from top to bottom. Required some creativeness. Below the two pics of my engine is a YouTube clip of its maiden test run. Runs beautifully.
Couple shots of the Farm Boy sized up by 20%. For the most part 20% added to original dimensions. Some fasteners scaled accordingly. Gears the same as original. Propane fired with 12v power tool battery to 6 volts via small 2 amp converter using JE Howells TM-6 ignition board. Both engines are extremely smooth with excellent coast time.
Farmboys - normal size left, 20% larger on right
Beautiful work! They look great together, and I love the woodwork as well. You're quite the craftsman. Dad would have enjoyed seeing them.