I just finished building the TIM-6. It is now a TIM-3.6. If anybody asks, tell them to leave out the diode and put a wire jumper where it goes. This diode is a safety so you can’t hook up the batteries backwards but also limits the voltage to the coil.
Bill Mitch
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
Thursday, August 5, 2010
Terry Mayhugh's V4 fabricated intake manifold
I just finished machining an intake manifold from scratch. I modeled the block and heads in SolidWorks and was able to use the assembly feature of SolidWorks to design a two-piece intake manifold that looks identical to the original cast version. It uses six dowell pins and Loctite high temp bearing retainer to hold the two sides together. I cnc'd the two halves on a Tormach mill (about three hours machining time). I still need to do the secondary machining, i.e. bring the arms to final length (I left them .020" long just in case my model in progress wasn't exactly the same as the prints) and to machine the water cavity and o-ring. I'll post some photos in the next few weeks on the Tormach website and post the URL here since I don't think I have enough space to post the photos here.
My original plan for the exhaust manifolds was to just fab some stainless tubular headers like I did for the V-twin but I think I'm going to try to design a pair of them in the same way I did the intake manifold. I think like the looks of them in the photo of the model built by the Craftsmanship museum better than the headers I had in mind. - terry
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Here are some pictures of the intake manifold that I designed from scratch for the Howell V4. I made it in two halves and then joined them with 8 dowell pins and high temp Loctite bearing retainer. The seam is invisible in the final finished part. I still have the water cavity and its o-ring groove to mill, but the manifold fits the three head/block surfaces perfectly with no daylight between them even without the required o-rings. I made two sets of halves but only finished one out since I haven't yet (at least) screwed the first one up. I was planning to produce and offer the halves for sale, but each set required three hours of machining time on my Tormach running even with the high speed spindle; and I just don't want to get into any kind of production with that type of efficiency. It is now very clear to me why Jerry decided to cast these parts.
After I receive my .046" endmill to machine the bottom o-ring groove I plan to start on a set of exhaust manifolds. I have a reasonable preliminary model so far with these parts as single pieces as I am concerned about the possibility of exhaust heat causing a pair of halves to separate. It will require a precision bored and plugged workpiece though from which the parts will be milled from two sides in order to keep the exhaust runners similar to the original castings. - Terry
My original plan for the exhaust manifolds was to just fab some stainless tubular headers like I did for the V-twin but I think I'm going to try to design a pair of them in the same way I did the intake manifold. I think like the looks of them in the photo of the model built by the Craftsmanship museum better than the headers I had in mind. - terry
-------------------
Here are some pictures of the intake manifold that I designed from scratch for the Howell V4. I made it in two halves and then joined them with 8 dowell pins and high temp Loctite bearing retainer. The seam is invisible in the final finished part. I still have the water cavity and its o-ring groove to mill, but the manifold fits the three head/block surfaces perfectly with no daylight between them even without the required o-rings. I made two sets of halves but only finished one out since I haven't yet (at least) screwed the first one up. I was planning to produce and offer the halves for sale, but each set required three hours of machining time on my Tormach running even with the high speed spindle; and I just don't want to get into any kind of production with that type of efficiency. It is now very clear to me why Jerry decided to cast these parts.
After I receive my .046" endmill to machine the bottom o-ring groove I plan to start on a set of exhaust manifolds. I have a reasonable preliminary model so far with these parts as single pieces as I am concerned about the possibility of exhaust heat causing a pair of halves to separate. It will require a precision bored and plugged workpiece though from which the parts will be milled from two sides in order to keep the exhaust runners similar to the original castings. - Terry
Monday, July 19, 2010
Tom Bak's Vintage
Hi Allen,
Attached are some pictures of the “Vintage” stirling cycle engine I recently completed from your excellent plans. I really enjoyed building the engine and found it actually more challenging than the Miser. I suspect it is likely due to the greater number of parts soldering some of them together and the added machining of the cooling system and associated pluming.
As you can see I made a few changes but basically stuck with all the dimensions on the plans.
The main differences are:
Made the main frame from ½ inch aluminum because I had some.
Modified the main frame to extend at the rear to allow the mounting of the water pump.
Mounted the water pump on the frame and used a friction drive to turn it.
Cross drilled the pump to get the water flowing the right direction due to the reversed rotation.
Mounted the crankshaft bearing holder to the mainframe with 6 2-56 screws.
Eliminated the outboard frame.
Added a standpipe (as mentioned in the plans) on the base to so water can be added to the cooling system and the air removed, it also makes it easy to monitor water flow.
Streamlined the water fittings on the cooler body just for the look of it.
Attached the power cylinder head using 6 0-80 screws.
I am very pleased with the design and the modifications I made with the exception of the water pump drive.
I am planning on replacing it with a gear drive as soon as I figure out the whole gear thing. I’ll send you a picture when done.
Thanks for the great plans and support, the miser runs great on the heating ring. What to build next…
Best regards,
Tom Bak
Attached are some pictures of the “Vintage” stirling cycle engine I recently completed from your excellent plans. I really enjoyed building the engine and found it actually more challenging than the Miser. I suspect it is likely due to the greater number of parts soldering some of them together and the added machining of the cooling system and associated pluming.
As you can see I made a few changes but basically stuck with all the dimensions on the plans.
The main differences are:
Made the main frame from ½ inch aluminum because I had some.
Modified the main frame to extend at the rear to allow the mounting of the water pump.
Mounted the water pump on the frame and used a friction drive to turn it.
Cross drilled the pump to get the water flowing the right direction due to the reversed rotation.
Mounted the crankshaft bearing holder to the mainframe with 6 2-56 screws.
Eliminated the outboard frame.
Added a standpipe (as mentioned in the plans) on the base to so water can be added to the cooling system and the air removed, it also makes it easy to monitor water flow.
Streamlined the water fittings on the cooler body just for the look of it.
Attached the power cylinder head using 6 0-80 screws.
I am very pleased with the design and the modifications I made with the exception of the water pump drive.
I am planning on replacing it with a gear drive as soon as I figure out the whole gear thing. I’ll send you a picture when done.
Thanks for the great plans and support, the miser runs great on the heating ring. What to build next…
Best regards,
Tom Bak
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
Farmboy Hit and Miss Theory??
Here's an email I received May 18, 2010:
----------------------------------
Hi all! I am new to the hobby, but have about 20yrs machining experience, (mainly CNC) and am very keen on building a farm boy. Before i get the plans there is a few queries i have. Firstly can someone please explain the HIT AND MISS theory to me? Secondly would this engine be a good first project?
I like the idea of working with bar stock materials, had enough of castings over the years! LOL!
Thanks in advance to all!!!
------------------------------------
Dad ranked the Farmboy the third easiest of the 6 internal combustion engines (see http://www.model-engine-plans.com/plansinfo.htm#Experience Levels ). It could be done as a first project - it just all depends on your skill level.
As far as theory, I assume you mean the 'hit and miss' gearing, and not general internal combustion theory. In a nutshell, a centrifugal ball governor (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrifugal_governor ) will hold the exhaust valve open until the engine RPM's slow to a set point. When this set point is reached, the govenor will release it's hold on the exhaust valve, thus allowing the next IC cycle to fully complete and the engine will fire. More information is available at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hit-and-miss_engine
Hope this helps!
Allen
----------------------------------
Hi all! I am new to the hobby, but have about 20yrs machining experience, (mainly CNC) and am very keen on building a farm boy. Before i get the plans there is a few queries i have. Firstly can someone please explain the HIT AND MISS theory to me? Secondly would this engine be a good first project?
I like the idea of working with bar stock materials, had enough of castings over the years! LOL!
Thanks in advance to all!!!
------------------------------------
Dad ranked the Farmboy the third easiest of the 6 internal combustion engines (see http://www.model-engine-plans.com/plansinfo.htm#Experience Levels ). It could be done as a first project - it just all depends on your skill level.
As far as theory, I assume you mean the 'hit and miss' gearing, and not general internal combustion theory. In a nutshell, a centrifugal ball governor (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrifugal_governor ) will hold the exhaust valve open until the engine RPM's slow to a set point. When this set point is reached, the govenor will release it's hold on the exhaust valve, thus allowing the next IC cycle to fully complete and the engine will fire. More information is available at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hit-and-miss_engine
Hope this helps!
Allen
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Earth Day at IU East featuring Superfan & Misers
My son Mark Howell has been working on a 1.5x size Superfan project for the past year at the local university. He was asked to participate in the "Earth Day" activities on campus a couple of weeks ago to demonstrate alternate forms of solar energy. The idea is to power the fan by using a large magnifying glass, thus of transforming solar energy to mechanical energy (they did this outside - not in photos). Also in the photos are Dad's original Superfan, Miser, and mini-Miser.
Here's a youtube video of the project:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYoek4WcFVg
Here's a youtube video of the project:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYoek4WcFVg
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
Tom Bak's Miser
Hi Allen,
Attached are a few pictures of the Miser engine I built. Although I am a little inexperienced at machining, like any good hobbyist I made some changes to make it more difficult to build!
It is the first engine I have made and I am very pleased with the results. The plans were great, as was the service.
Best Regards,
Tom
----------------------------
Tom - Congrats on completing your first engine. Looks good!
Allen
Attached are a few pictures of the Miser engine I built. Although I am a little inexperienced at machining, like any good hobbyist I made some changes to make it more difficult to build!
It is the first engine I have made and I am very pleased with the results. The plans were great, as was the service.
Best Regards,
Tom
----------------------------
Tom - Congrats on completing your first engine. Looks good!
Allen
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