Re: magnetic drive water pump:
I have a question for those who have built the magnetic drive water pump.
Have you checked the operation of your water pump and confirmed it is moving water? Perhaps did you happen to check it off the engine.
I built the pump for my V8 version of the V4 several years ago and I'm pretty sure I saw it moving water - at least a few bubbles went by in my clear hose. Now I'm not so sure it's working - or ever worked properly.
I took it off the engine and cleaned it up and tested it off the engine and sure enough it doesn't pump. The magnetic coupling is not the issue the impeller is moving and you can tell when the magnets "cog" when they slip.
I recently needed another pump for a new engine so I built a slightly larger version with a direct drive shaft and made (what I think) is a better impeller. But still no pumping action.
I looked at pictures of some others that people have built and best I can tell they look like mine and appear to be what's in the drawings so I don't think I interpreted anything wrong. I'm not sure why it doesn't pump.
I'm very interested to know if there might be something wrong with the design although if Jerry made it probably worked. So it's probably something I've done wrong (twice).
Has anyone else made one of the pumps and actually confirmed operation.
Thanks
Sage
--------------------------------------- Dec 22, 2014
I think I figured out my problem. Off the engine I'm turning the pump too slow. I was using my battery drill which only turns 580rpm. I put it on my AC drill and at 2800 rpm it pumps fine. I think on the engine it probably turns at least 1000rpm. All I have to do is get it primed properly on the engine.
Sage
-------------------------------------- Jan 7, 2015
I found that as the pump is designed does not provide adequate magnetic coupling for the torque required and looses magnetic lock at normal operating speed when pumping 50/50 ethylene glycol coolant. The torque requirement of a centrifugal pump increases with RPM. This being said, I found a solution that worked well for me that did not require remaking the pump. I added another set of magnets to the drive, placed between the original set of magnets. The second set of magnets were placed with their magnet polarity opposite that of the first set. This provided far greater magnetic coupling and holds thru out the operating RPM. Also it should be noted that once magnetic lock is broken no torque is transferred and the pump comes to a stop and no coolant is pumped. Magnetic coupling can not then be restored without coming to a complete stop and restarted. thank you, Wayne Dellinger 717-244-8886
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